Friday, January 13, 2012

'Rogue Session #1': Special 24-Course Dinner @ Rogue24 (Guest Chef Bryan Voltaggio from Volt)

During James Beard Award-winning chef/owner RJ Cooper’s recuperation from open-heart surgery, some of his closest celebrity chef friends will pitch in to host “theme weeks” at the intimate Shaw–area restaurant. These special events were dubbed 'Rogue Sessions'.
  • Each Session was developed to be a 24-course dinner led by a Guest Chef and served with wine and cocktail pairings by celebrity bartender Derek Brown (Owner of The Passenger) and Sommelier JP Fetherston
  • The 24-course menus will be broken into 12 courses designed by the Guest Chef, and the other 12 courses are staple dishes from Rogue24 Chef RJ Cooper
Rogue Session #1 was headed by Guest Chef Bryan Voltaggio, Chef/Owner of Volt in Frederick MD. One of the best restaurants in the DC metro area. He already does a 21-course tasting menu at Volt, so he definitely is up to the task of leading a Rogue Session.

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Review:
  • Menu won't be offered in advance (keeping you anticipating throughout the dinner), but is handed-out as a 'takeaway' when you leave 
  • About 2 -3 dishes hit 'Wow' status (what I define as 'transcendental' -- a complex flavor profile, a contrast or merging of flavors; something I'd casually call had a little 'sumptin 'sumptin)
  • Another 2 - 3 dishes were near-Wow status but couldn't quite get there
  • The remaining dishes were at least 'Good' but nothing particularly great
  • The Cocktail and Wine pairings were provided every 3 courses, and the theme of the pairing was supposed to match/align with the next 3 dishes. Sometimes it 'worked' for us, other times not so much
  • Space looks modern without being too trendy (reminded me of a relaxed NYC spot) 
  • Staff was very pleasant and professional, many of the Chef handling prep-work most of the night were also serving dishes throughout the night
  • Very nice dinner overall

Well, to be fair this was a pregaming drink over at the Gin Joint  within New Heights restaurant in Woodley Park.  Fantastic gin selection here btw, and a knowledgeable bar staff. The above is actually their Midnight Manhatten, filled with tasty spirits ;)
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Macaroons/celeriac/beet.
One sweet-filled with apple (the left), and the right was savory foie gras filled. I especially loved the one on the right. 


House fried rice/duck/vegetables/soy/sesame


Pizza paper/ricotta/basil/tomato

Guest Chef for Rogue Session #1: Bryan Voltaggio (Owner/Chef of acclaimed Volt restaurant)

Oyster/smoked potato/bacon/black truffle

Yogurt/eggplant/benne/sumac

Urchin/lava/coral/seaweed/brackish water



One of the paired cocktails by Consulting Mixologist Derek Brown (owner of DC's The Passenger)

Kampachi/fennel/blood orange/ginger

Celery root/nasturtium/mustard/grapefruit

Ossetra/cauliflower/apple/cider

Swordfish/mortared scales/cara cara orange/samphire


Foie gras/coconut/coriander/coffee


Turbot/butternut/brussels/radish

Ravioli/parsley root/ash/black trumpet

Ox tongue/sour dough/mostarda/bitter herbs

Squab/dates/parsnips/groats

Oyster root/quince/country ham/almonds

Pig/cabbage/juniper/apple vinegar

Snails/ham/potato/trumpets

Lamb/crab apple/granola/dandelion


Endives/perigord black truffle/truffle caramel


Maitake/oats/seagrass/yeast/ale

Peanut butter/chocolate/jelly/milk

Chocolate/marshmallow/peanut/caramel

Happy endings/little things/small bites

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